From Lorne Hammond Sent Wed, Sep 5th 2018, 15:08
nice post Sam! lorne -----Original Message----- From: Sam Mims <xxx@xxxxxxx.xxx>=20 Sent: September-05-18 8:08 AM To: DJ Maytag <xxxxxxxx@xxxxxxxx.xxx>; Analog Heaven = <xxxxxxxx@xxxxxxxxx.xxx> Subject: Re: [AH] Roland parts cross reference/compatibility chart? Matching parts like this is a tricky game. I spend a crazy amount of = time at it, and have lots of incorrect parts to show for it! (And = thankfully, a decent number of correct ones also...) You can easily get = lost in a rabbit hole. You are correct in that the SH-101 pot is from the same supplier - the = 'EVH...' part numbers say that they are both Panasonic parts. But the = devil is in the details. Most notably, the SH-101 pot is a 10KA, while = you need a 100KA. In Panasonic-speak, the 'A14' at the end of the part = number designates this - the SH-101 pot ends in 'A15'. And all of those other numbers before it designate things like the type = of shaft (knurled, flatted, round?), the length of the shaft, etc., all = of which are critical. My mental process in finding a replacement goes something like this: (1) Find pots that are electrically correct - i.e. same resistance and = taper. Theoretically, you can make any of these work, though you may = have nothing better than a strange pot dangling by the wires. (2) Narrow your search to those that physically fit - both mounting to = the PCB (if applicable), and fitting within the confines of the synth. = Do you need a panel-mount or PCB-mount pot, for instance? Some = PCB-mount pots have three solder pins, some have four (the fourth is = either a dummy or a center tap). Dual pots may have 6 or 7 pins. (3) Once you find pots that can actually mount in the synth, find the = ones with the correct type of shaft. If your other pots (and hence the knobs) are flatted D-shaft, then you will want a replacement pot with = this type of shaft. If it's a D-shaft, things are further complicated = by the orientation of the flat - if this is wrong, once the knob is = installed, it may be pointing 180 or 90 degrees out of whack. And of = course, the shaft needs to be the correct length. Too short won't work, = of course, too long can be solved by a cutting wheel. (4) Other considerations include: Solder lugs or PCB pins? If PCB pins, = they need to be oriented correctly. Do you need a pot with a center = detent or not? If it is a 4-pin pot, do you need a center-tap pot or = not? So you can see that it gets pretty complicated! I often think that what = we sell at Syntaur is not so much the part itself, but all of the = legwork it takes to figure that part out. And in a number of cases, = when the perfect match is not to be found, we sell a pot that has the = shaft already cut to the correct length or something like that. If you like, you can email me a photo of the pot you need, and I can = look through our database and perhaps find a good replacement among the = 10KA pots we carry. Sam Mims Syntaur On 9/5/2018 8:00 AM, DJ Maytag wrote: > Hey all, > > I=E2=80=99m looking for an A10K volume pot for a Roland EP-11 (Piano = Plus 11), and can=E2=80=99t see to find this part used in other Roland = gear made in 1982 (closest thing is an A100K used in the SH-101 that = appears to be from the same supplier). The Roland part # is 13219240 and = the supplier # is EVH-5XAP20A14. > > Any thoughts on where to find this? It=E2=80=99s in pretty decent = shape, works very well (aside from the volume pot and a couple sound = selector switches), and I=E2=80=99d rather restore it than scrap it for = compatible parts. > >