From Kenny Balys Sent Fri, Jun 29th 2018, 12:36
From Kenny Balys Sent Fri, Jun 29th 2018, 12:36
I use the method of blobing on more solder to a pad and then quickly sucking it all up. This works well for me on DIP / through hole boards. If I start to do surface mount repairs, think my method will have to change. For now, I have enough broken through hole stuff to not have to worry. Have witnessed others use the wick method to success. I just cannot do it. There must be some kind of crafty magic involved. Style seems to be significant wherever hand skill is necessary. On 29.06.18 12:30 , DJ Maytag wrote: > I lost one solder pad on the release slider. I used a piece of 22 AWG > doorbell wire to make a jumper from another point on the board to complete > the circuit. It was more from being careless (last slider that I removed) > than anything else other than rushing to be done. > > My experience has been that solder wick acts as a heat sink, drawing some of > the heat up the length of wick so as to not overheat the pad/part. However, > I’m no expert on repairs, and can’t say for sure that this is a > good/bad/neutral thing. On Fri, Jun 29, 2018 at 2:17 AM Florian Anwander > <xxxxxxxxx@xxxx-xxxxxx.xx <mailto:xxxxxxxxx@xxxx-xxxxxx.xx>> wrote: > > Hi > > Am 29.06.2018 um 03:54 schrieb Brian Willoughby: >> It’s a bit of a Catch-22. You have to heat up the pads to desolder them, >> but heating up the pads can separate them from the board. On top of that, >> these vintage synths were made as cheaply as possible, so they’re more >> likely to suffer a copper pad separating from the board. > I replaced the full fadersets at around 5 or 8 SH-101s (back when > TechTransplant still did sell them) - I never had an issue with the solder > pads. Other brands and later Roland synths: yes, but not with the early > Roland pcbs. > > > Florian >