From Giles Ward Sent Sun, Dec 23rd 2018, 23:25
From Giles Ward Sent Sun, Dec 23rd 2018, 23:25
Scotch Magic tape seems to use good glue. I have got cables that I have labelled using paper under Scotch Magic and it has stayed put and not gone sticky. On 23/12/2018 23:11, Steven Clements wrote: > Labels do not leave any mess... unless you remove them. Then a bit of > Goof Off or Goo Gone and you're good. I cannot imagine a reason you > would want to remove a label that identifies the product the PSU was > meant to power is beyond me. I've had labels on wall warts for many > many years and they're not sliding off, degrading, or faulty in anyway. > The brother label maker isn't inexpensive and the label material is > Brother P-Touch M Series label tape M-K231 which here in Canada isn't > cheap either. These are great, so whatever you've had history with > isn't this stuff. A blanket statement that labels make a huge mess is > not correct. > > https://goofoffproducts.com/ > https://googone.com/ > > > * > Steven*** > > > On Sun, Dec 23, 2018 at 12:44 PM Quincas Moreira <xxxxxxx@xxxxx.xxx > <mailto:xxxxxxx@xxxxx.xxx>> wrote: > > PLUS ONE for silver sharpie. Labels leave glue residue and make a > huge mess. The sharpie looks good, is visible and makes no mess. One > silver sharpie will label everything and still have leftover ink for > any new gear you may buy. > > On Sun, Dec 23, 2018 at 1:42 PM Lorne Hammond <xxxxxxxx@xxxx.xx > <mailto:xxxxxxxx@xxxx.xx>> wrote: > > I label each wall wart with the unit it powers. I experimented > with a guitar pedal power supply to simplify things. I also use > short tip to barrel polarity changers where needed (mostly > european things like shruthi or vxxy gear). > I am hopeful about the KVR Vixen as in addition to being a mixer > (pan/2 sends, no eq)it has multiple power supplies and a way > smaller footprint than my heavy Mackie 1402, so that may let me > move to a permanently wired "lift the lid, apply power and audio > to pa setup for live shows. I do find most of the under $100 PS > pedal board things dont have the milliamp range 100 not 400-600 > I need though. There is nothing wrong with the $29 cheapo ebay > chinese ones. > Best case is truly isolated ps, but that is more in the $200 > range. Re labelling cable ends I ordered two packages of the > HOSA ones and found they cannot be fed into my laser printer, > that was a waste of $ as the point is to have a cleaner setup in > teh studio (vs live which is more guerilla, where weight, speed > of setup/takedown is primary). > > Lorne > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sevo Stille <xxxx@xxxxxx.xx <mailto:xxxx@xxxxxx.xx>> > Sent: December-23-18 2:50 AM > To: xxxxxxxx@xxxxxxxxx.xxx <mailto:xxxxxxxx@xxxxxxxxx.xxx> > Subject: Re: [AH] DC Barrel plug labeling / management > > Am 23.12.2018 um 00:42 schrieb Jimmy Moore: > > How do people keep track of which DC barrel plugs go to which > effect > > and synth? I've heard of using plastic bread clips or nail > polish, > > but what do y'all do? > > First of all, I've learned to bother less - I don't seem to own > anything that requires a perfectly matched wall wart, almost > everything here with barrel plugs is 5.5/2.1mm centre positive > 5, 9 or 12V DC and does not need currents beyond 1000mA. After > replacing the weakest (300-500mA) wall warts with 1A ones that > cover everything, and swapping out the one odd 3.5mm socket for > a standard one, that left me with three voltage groups for just > about everything, save for a few devices that require AC or very > non-standard voltages. Labelling wall warts and inputs by > voltage (using red stickers for AC, and blue for the two or > three odd men out that take 7.5 or 18V, or 2.5A) covers all my > needs. > > Sevo > > > > -- > Quincas Moreira > Synth Diy Guy >